Quick answer: Lawn grubs are C-shaped, white beetle larvae, mostly Japanese beetle grubs in central Pennsylvania, that feed on grass roots. Signs include brown patches that peel back like carpet, spongy turf, and skunks, raccoons, or birds digging in the lawn. Preventive grub control is applied in early to mid-summer, before eggs hatch. Curative treatments target active grubs in late summer and early fall, when they’re small and feeding near the surface.
Few things are more frustrating than watching a lawn you’ve cared for all season turn brown in irregular patches, then waking up to find it torn apart by skunks overnight. Often, the culprit is underground. Here’s how to identify grubs, when to treat them, and how to keep them from coming back.
Grubs are the larval stage of several beetles. In Pennsylvania, the most common is the Japanese beetle, along with masked chafers, European chafers, and Oriental beetles. Adult beetles lay eggs in the lawn in early summer. The eggs hatch into small grubs that feed on grass roots through late summer and early fall, then burrow deeper to overwinter. In spring they return to the root zone, feed briefly, and emerge as adult beetles to start the cycle again.
Use a shovel to cut three sides of a one-foot-square section of turf, about two to three inches deep, at the edge of a brown area. Peel it back and count the grubs. Repeat in a few spots.
Replace the turf and water it well afterward.
Preventive products are applied before or as eggs hatch and work best when watered into the root zone. They’re the most effective approach for lawns with a history of grub damage, and they typically protect the lawn for the season.
If you find active grubs, a curative product targets them while they’re young and feeding near the surface. Treat as soon as damage is found; by late fall, grubs move deeper and become harder to control.
Spring treatment is usually the least effective option. Grubs are large, close to becoming beetles, and eat less. In most cases, it’s better to repair damaged areas in spring and plan preventive treatment for summer.
Brown patches in late summer aren’t always grubs. Drought-stressed grass is still anchored by its roots and greens up after watering or rain. Lawn diseases often show rings, spots, or lesions on the grass blades. Grub damage stands out because the turf lifts easily and you’ll find the C-shaped larvae in the soil underneath. Checking before treating saves money and avoids unnecessary product.
Rake out the dead grass, loosen the soil, add a thin layer of topsoil or compost, and overseed. Early fall is the best time for repair. If damage shows up later in the season, plan to reseed the next fall or in early spring.
Preventive grub control is applied in June or July. Curative treatment is applied in August through early October when active grubs are found.
Yes. Heavy infestations can eat enough roots to kill large patches of grass, and animals digging for grubs can cause even more damage.
Traps often attract more beetles into your yard than they catch, which can increase egg-laying nearby. Most experts don’t recommend them for grub control.
They’re almost always hunting grubs. Controlling the grubs usually solves the digging problem.
BARE Lawn Care’s owner is a licensed pesticide applicator, and our programs include preventive and curative grub control, timed for central Pennsylvania’s grub life cycle. Families who prefer a natural approach can choose organic options. Learn more about BARE pest control, explore our fertilization programs, or get your Quick Quote.
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